Kellokas-huivi

Kellokas-huivissa on ikään kuin pieni kulkusia, kelloja. Kuvio toistuu myös nurjalla puolella, vaikkakaan ei ihan samanlaisena. Kuvio on helppo neuloa ja helppo oppia ulkoa, kunhan vain opit ensin 5 silmukan kavennuksen. Eikä sekään ole hankala!

Tee pieni takin alle kietaistava kaulahuivi tai pitkä ja leveä harteilla pidettävä shaalimainen huivi! Langanmenekki on tässä laskettu pientä huivia varten, isompaan tarvitset huomattavasti enemmän lankaa:-)

EDIT: Kaaviossa oli virhe (merkin selitys), kaavio korjattu 13.2.2011

Tarvikkeet:
Katia Tupa (50 % merinovilla ja 50% silkki), ruskea (värinro 2), 200 g
4 mm puikot

Neuletiheys:
22 s = 10 cm

Huom.
Mallikuvio on 5 silmukalla jaollinen, eli jos haluat leveämmän huivin, silmukkamäärän tulee olla jaollinen 5 silmukalla + 6 s (reunasilmukat).

Ohje:
Luo 41 s ja neulo 4 kerrosta ainaoikeaa. Siirry sen jälkeen neulomaan Kaaviota 1. Molemmissa reunoissa neulotaan koko ajan 3 silmukalla ainaoikeaa. Kaavioon on merkitty toistuva kuvio varjostettuna. Neulo kaaviota niin pitkään kuin haluat tai niin kauan kuin lankaa on jäljellä pieni nöttönen. Neulo lopuksi 4 kerrosta ainaoikeaa kuten aloitusreunaankin ja päättele silmukat. Päättele langanpäät ja iloitse uudesta pehmeästä huivista!

Tulip-shawl

You’ ll need:
Yarn:
Pirtin Kehräämö yarn, (aran or fingering weight wool)
Needles:
4-5 mm circular needle

Notes:
WS rows: purl all stitches. The first and last 2 stitches of every row are worked in garter stitch (marked as x in chart).

Pattern:
Cast on 5 stitches and set up patt as foll:
Row 1: (RS) K2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Row 2: knit
Row 3: K2, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, k2
Row 4: k2, p7, k2 = 11 stitches

Work rows 1-20 of Chart 1.
Work rows 1-12 of Chart 2 7 times total.
Work rows 1-4 of Chart 3.
Work rows 1-19 of Chart 4 ending on RS.

Bind off as follows: k2, * wyf, sl 2 stitches from right needle back to left needle, k2togtbl (the 2sts just returned to left needle), k1; rep. from * until all stitches are bound off.

Chart 1, 2, 3:

Chart 4:

Laura - cabled hat

Edited: Row 20 !

This child's cabled hat is knit from the top down for a change. This makes the earflaps easy to knit, and also makes it easier to lengthen or shorten the hat to the desired length. Cables adorn the edges of the flaps, and there is an easy button closure, no need to knit ties.

Yarn
Novita Isoveli, 100 g (3.5 oz) purple, OR Novita Aino, 100 g (3.5 oz) purple (both are Bulky / 12 ply weight)

Gauge
16 st and 21 rows stockinette stitch = 10 cm ( 4 in )

Needles
Double point needles, size 5mm (or size needed to obtain correct gauge) (Note: pattern assumes use of 5 dp's)
Short circular needle, size 5mm (or size neened to obtain correct gauge)

Other
1 button

Size
Child, 1-2 yrs, head circumference about 46 cm (18 ")

Note: If you want to make an adult sized hat, add purl stitches between the cables, instead of inceasing the number of cables. A hat with 9 purl stitches between the cables fits most adults. For adult sizes, you can omit the ear flaps, and add a few rows of ribbing to the edge.

Pattern
See chart

Directions
For the increases (make 1), work both the front and back edges of the stitch, creating one stitch. If you prefer, you can increase by picking up and knitting the loop between two stitches. Whichever method you choose for later increases, do follow the pattern's method for the first few rows.

On the double point needles, cast on 8 stitches, divided evenly onto four needles (2+2+2+2)
Row 1: Knit each stitch through both the front and back edges, = 16 stitches total (4 st / needle)
Row 2: Knit each stitch through both the front and back edges, increasing to 32 stitches total
Row 3: Increase by knitting both front and back edge of stitch, on every other stitch, beginning with the first stitch of the row. Knit every other stitch. Increase on the last stitch of the row. (=49 st)
Row 4: * k4, p3 *
Row 5: * make cable (= slip 2 st onto cable holder and hold to back of work, knit 2, knit 2 from cable holder), p3 * (Move stitches from the other needle if the cable section falls between two needles)
Row 6: *k4, p3, make 1st* (=56 st)
Row 7: *k4, p4*
Row 8: *k4, p4, make 1st* (=63 st)
Row 9: *k4, p5*
Row 10: *make cable , p5, make 1st* (=70 st)
Row 11: *k4, p6*
Row 12: *k4, p6, make 1st* (=77 st)
Row 13: *k4, p7*
Row 14: *k4, p7, make 1st* (=84 st)
Row 15: *make cable, p8*
Rows 16-19: *k4, p8*
Row 20: *make cable, p8*
Repeat rows 16-20 , 3 more times.

If you feel there are too many stitches on the dpn's to work with comfortably, you can transfer the work onto the circular needle.

Knit two more rows of *k4, p8*

Next, work the front and back edge ribbing, at the same time continuing the cables onto the ear flaps.

Beginning with a knit stitch, work *k1, p1* ribbing over 11 stitches, then knit the ear flap section (18 st) as instructed previously, then continue with *k1, p1* ribbing for another 30 stitches. Knit other ear flap (18 st) , then work last 7 stitches starting with purl st in *k1, p1* ribbing. Place stitch markers at the edges of the ear flap sections, if desired.

Work tree rows of the above. ( on the third row, make cables on the ear flap sections)

Next, finish the front and back edges. If you have been using the circular needle, do this using extra dp needles.

Bind off the first 11 st, knit the ear flap (18 st) and place these stitches on a dp needle. Using another dp , bind off the front edge stitches (30 st). Work the ear flap section (18 st) using the dp needle, leave these stitches on the dp. Bind off remaining 7 stitches off the circular needle. Cut yarn. Now the front and back edge stitches have been bound off and the ear flaps are on two dp needles.

Continue with the ear flaps per chart 1, beginning with a wrong side row. Note, the cable rows are more frequent on the ear flaps, which helps to taper the flaps.

After you have worked the last row of the chart, bind off on one flap. On the other, after working throught the chart, create a button hole:
Row 1: k1, k2tog, yo, k2
Row 2: purl
Row 3: bind off all stitches.

Tie off the ends of yarn, and sew a button on one flap. Finish off the top of the hat, using the yarn end to close up the small hole created in the casting on.

Translated from Finnish: T.Kooienga

Mosaiikkilapaset

Tämä neuleohje ei ole aivan yksityiskohtainen, mutta lapasia neulonut pystyy näillä ohjeilla nämä lapaset neulomaan! Lapasten malli on yksinkertainen, ei kiilapeukaloa.

Luo 3 mm puikoille 4 x 14 silmukkaa ja neulo mustalla 2 o, 2 n-resoria 20 kerrosta tai niin pitkälti kuin haluat. Neulo 1 kerros sileää mustalla ja aloita sen jälkeen kaavion neulominen.

Peukalon paikka on merkitty kaavioon oikean käden lapasen kohtaan, tee peilikuvaksi kun neulot vasenta lapasta. Peukaloaukkoon jätetään siis 8 silmukkaa. Kun neulot peukaloa, poimi silmukoita lisää niin, että silmukoita tulee 6+6+7 silmukkaa. Neulo peukalo mustalla niin pitkäksi kuin tarvitset, minulla oli sopiva 18 kerrosta ja päälle kavennukset.

Kaaviot saat suuremmiksi klikkaamalla.
Ruutukaavio oikeilla väreillä:

Tulostus on ehkä helpompaa näillä väreillä: violetti on violetti Colori ja valkoiset ruudut kuvaa mustaa lankaa:

Sepe Bear

"Sepe" Teddy Bear from UllaNeule

This bear is knit in one piece , from the toes up. The only seams will be on the top of the head, and on the ears. A pair of suspender-held pants is knit separately.

The bear had been knit out Vuorelma "Veto" yarn which is fairly light weight (sport weight). The yarn you use will determine the finished size of the bear. Using the yarn Novita " 7 Veljesta" the bear would be about 36 cm tall. ( Aran weight)

The bear and the pants will fit together well if you use similar weight yarns for both. The brown bear in the photos is made from "Veto" yarn, the white bear from "7 Veljesta". The white bear is a little bigger than the brown.

Yarn
Vuorelma Veto (85 % wool, 15 % polyamide, 100 g / about. 260 m), 100 g red-brown (310)Novita Nalle Colori (75 % wool / 25 % polyamide), 150 g variegated blue (860)

Gauge
22 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch with "Veto" yarn = 10 cm

Needles
Double point 3.5 mm or as needed for your gauge (note - Finns knit with a set of 5 dp needles)

Other materials
Small amount of black yarn for embroidering the facial features; fiberfill for stuffing

Size
The bear is around 28 cm tall (this is for the lighter weight yarn)

Note!
When you have knitted the legs and some of the body, finish the yarn ends on the legs and stuff the legs. When you are attatching the arms, add more stuffing to the body. When you reach the decreases for the neck, stuff the arms. This way it will be easier to stuff the bear and to shape the limbs.Add the stuffing in smaller pieces, so it does not get lumpy. Add extra fiberfill to the tummy and bottom areas, and to the muzzle area on the face.

Directions

Legs

Cast on 10 st and knit garter stitch for 15 rows ( this will be back and forth, using 2 needles), ending with a wrong side row. Place a stitch marker at the start of the row , then knit a right side row. Pick up 10 stitches from each edge of the square you have just knitted, onto 3 other dp needles. You should have a total of 40 stitches spread over 4 needles.
Knit in the round for 3 rows, ending at the stitch marker. Begin the rounding of the legs:
Row 1: knit 19, knit 2 together, knit 8 , slip 1 knit 1 pass slipped stitch over , knit 9
Row 2: k18 , k2tog, k8 , s1 k1 psso, k8
Row 3: k17, k2tog, k8, s1 k1 psso, k7.
Row 4: K16, k2tog, k2, s1 k1 psso, k2tog, k2, s1 k1 psso, k6
Row 5: k15 , k2tog , k1, s1 k1 psso, k2tog, k1, s1 k1 psso, k5.
Row 6: k14, k2tog, k4, s1 k1 psso, k4 (= 24 s)
Knit 1 row , and move the start of the row so that it is in the middle back of the leg. Distribute the stitches evenly onto the needles. Knit in the round for 16 rows.
Knit the other leg in the same way.

Body

To attach the legs, cast on 3 stitches between them on both front and back, (=54 st). Knit in the round for 26 rows. (rows start in the center back)
On the 26th row, cast off for the underarms, 2 stitches on both edges. End the row in the center back, cut the yarn and place the stitches on a
holder.

Arms

Cast on 4+4 stitches onto 2 needles using the figure-8 cast on and knit 1 row. Next row, begin the increases: k1, increase, k2, (place a stitch marker
between these stitches to mark the start of the row), increase, k1. Knit the other needle in the same way. Continue increasing on every needle, until there are 10
stitches on each needle. (The increase will be 1 stitch away from the edges - ie, k1, increase, knit to last stitch , increase, k1). Add needles to the work as you are
increasing, ending up with 4 needles with 5 stitches on each. Knit in the round for 7 rows.
Next, decrease as follows: *k3, k2tog*. Repeat from * to * for all needles. (=16 st). Then knit in the round for 20 rows. On the last row, decrease 2 stitches from
the underside on both arms, and place remaining stitches on a holder.
Repeat for second arm.

Join the body and arms onto the same needles. (=78st) and knit 1 row. At the same time, move the beginning of the row to the center back, placing a stitch marker.

Begin the shoulder decrease: knit the area where the top of the arms meets the body piece, 6 stitches as follows: k2tog, k2, slip knit pass slipped stitch over. (Each decrease
row will reduce 8 stitches). Repeat the decrease on every other row, 5 times. (=38 st)

For the neck: * k1, k2tog* , repeating * to *, k2 (=26 st)
At this point, the stitches should be divided onto the needles as follows:
Needle 1: 6 s
Needle 2: 7 s
Needle 3: 6 s
Needle 4: 7 s

Knit 2 rows. Next row, increase for the head:
Row 1: k6, increase, k1, increase, k12, increase, k1, increase, k6
Row 2: k7, inc, k1, inc, k6, inc, k1, inc, k7, inc, k1, inc,, k7
Row 3: k8, inc, k1, inc, k18, inc, k1, inc, k8 (=40 st)

Find the centermost 5 stitches of the face, place markers. These are the stitches shaded in grey on the chart. Knit the 9 rows of the chart as directed , knitting in the round. (You will knit stitches not marked on the chart as well each row). At the end of the decreases for the muzzle (charted), you will have 38 stitches.

After the muzzle, knit 9 rows, then start on the decreases. The beginning of the row is in the center back: knit 2tog at the end of needle number 1; slip knit pass slipped stitch over at the start of needle 2. Knit 2tog at the end of needle 3, skpsso at the start of needle 4. Decrease every row until 22 stitches remain. Cast off stitches, which leaves the top of the head open for stuffing.

At this point the bear will be mostly stuffed, with the exception of the head. Stuff the head partly, placing extra stuffing in the muzzle area so it is slightly raised from the rest of the head. Once you have a defined shape to the face, embroider the nose, mouth and eyes with black yarn. Place extra stuffing behind the embroidered areas so the black yarn does not show through when making a light coloured bear. Stuff the head completely, and sew the opening shut.

Ears

Cast on 20 stitches , divide evenly onto 4 dp needles, and knit in the round for 3 rows. Next row, add 1 stitch onto each needle as follows:
Needle 1: k4, inc, k1
Needle 2: k1, inc, k4
Needle 3: k4, inc, k1
Needle 4: k1, inc, k4
Knit 1 row, then start decrease as for top of head: k2tog at the end of needle 1; sk psso at start of needle 2; k2tog at end of needle 3; skpsso at start of needle 4.
Do these decreases 3 times, cut the yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches. Make second ear the same way.
Stuff the ears and sew them onto the head.

Pants

Cast on 54 stitches ( divided onto four needles : 13, 14, 13, 14) and work k1 p1 ribbing for 3 rows. Continue knitting knit rows for about 5 cm, or until the work
reaches the crotch of the bear.
Divide the stitches in half (13 + 14, increase 1 stitch so you have 14 +14) and knit the first pant leg. Knit for approx. 1/3 of the length of the leg of your bear, then
knit 2 rows of k1,p1 ribbing. Cast off.
Knit the other pant leg the same way.
Pick up 3 stitches from the front waistband, and knit garter stitch on 2 needles (working flat) until the suspender reaches across the back (see photos) and cast off.
Make second suspender strap the same way, then sew both to the rear waistband.

Chart 1, nosechart symbols

l knit stitch
+ make a stitch from the loop between two stitches
/ knit 2 together
\ slip , knit. pass slipped stitch over

Translated from Finnish: T.Kooienga

Crown hat

Crown Hat

This is a charming summer hat for little princesses and princes. Choose your little royal's favourite colours and knit up a hat - or several!
The pattern is written for the red and green hat, which is knit from green 'Viola" and red 'Tennessee' yarns .

Yarn
Novita 'Tennessee', red, 100 g ( 3.5 oz) (Double Knit-weight cotton)
Cotton Garden 'Viola' or Novita 'Mini' or Sandnes 'Mandarin Petit', green. Knit doubled (with two strands) , 50 g ( 1.8 oz ) (Fingering to Sport weight)

Needles
3.5 mm needles, and short circular needle (US size 4)

Gauge
20 st and 24 rows in stockinette stitch, 'Tennessee' yarn = 10 cm ( 4 inches)

Pattern
See chart at end of directions

Size
1-2 year olds, head circumference about 47 cm. ( about 18.5 inches )

Directions
Cast on 6 stitches with green yarn, using two strands of the same yarn. Knit one row. Work in garter stitch ( knit every row ), and increase at the end of every right side row : knit to the last two stitches, then increase by knitting into the front and back loops on the next stitch, knit 1.
After you have increased the 12th stitch on the right side, knit two more rows without increasing. On the next row ( wrong side ), cast off 6 stitches purlwise. ( 6 stitches remain ). Knit to end of row. On the following row (right side), begin the increases as directed above, until you have 12 stitches again.

(PHOTO 1 )

Continue with increases and decreases until you have 9 peaks. Decrease to 6 stitches, knit to end of row. Next row (right side) cast off all stitches. Sew the ending to the beginning, creating a circle.
Alternately, you can use the three-needle bind-off, as shown in ( http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/casting-off ) : pick up 6 stitches from the starting end and bind off stitches from the wrong side as directed, thus joining the beginning to the ending of the band.
Once you have a circular crown section, pick up stitches from the wrong side, while keeping the peaks of the crown facing downwards.

(PHOTO 2 - Wrong side shown)

Pick up a stitch from each knit row's purl-side loop. Pick up extra stitches, so that you end up with 69 stitches.

(PHOTO 3)

Switch to red 'Tennessee' yarn (photo 3 and 4) and knit 3 rows in the round. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the next row, as the decreases and yarn overs can make it difficult to keep track of rows. Begin working in the pattern as shown on the chart. ( pattern repeat marked by bold box).

(PHOTO 4 - Eyelet pattern started. The peaks of the crown will be turned to point up when the hat is completed)

Knit 4 repeats of the pattern ( rows 1-8 four times ), at which point the hat will have 8 rows of eyelets . On the final row of the fourth repeat (row 8) , add 1 stitch at the end of the row, to make 70 stitches total.

Begin the decreases:
Row 1: k1, * k2tog, k5 * , k2tog, k4
Rows 2-3 : knit
Row 4: k1, * k2tog, k4 * k2tog, k3
Rows 5-6: knit
Row 7: k1, * k2tog, k3 *, k2tog, k2
Rows 8-9: knit
Row 10: k1, * k2tog, k2 * k2tog, k1
Row 11: knit
Row 12: k1, * k2tog, k1 * , k2tog
Row 13: knit
Row 14: k1, * k2tog *

Cut the yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches, then tie off the end. Finish off other yarn ends. The crown hat is done!

Chart
/ knit 2 together
\ slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
o yarn over
I knit stitch

Translated from Finnish: T.Kooienga

Korjausta

Korjasin Holvit-huivin kaavioiden linkkejä, kaaviot eivät olleet suurentuneet klikkaamalla. Toivottavasti nyt toimivat!? Jos muissa ohjeissa ilmenee vastaavaa, laittakaa ihmeessä kommenttia, niin yritän korjata:-)